Holy Yatra to the Abode of Lord Shiva - 7

STAY AT NAYALAM

Zangmu from Nepal side

This time the cross over into Tibet after crossing the Friendship bridge across Bote Kosi River was smooth. There was no inordinate delay. Our Chinese guide was waiting for us with three buses and immediately we proceeded to Nayalam.

    

Kodari from the Chinese side

It was raining heavily on the Chinese side. There were many waterfalls all along the way. The mountains were emerald green in this part . The weather and the journey was pleasant the road asphalted and was smooth for a remote ghat road. That day we gained around 2000m.

Water falls on the Highway

The rest house where we stayed

Nayalam Pilgrims Inn was not like a typical mud house. It was two storied and had toilets and Wi-Fi facility. Also there where mandatory signs to attract European tourists. Also facilty was there was for hot water bathing using solar energy. It costed 30 Yuans for a steaming bath. Many of us took bath here.

A Super Market

Nayalam town has also changes a lot. There were many Hotels,Restaurants serving different cuisines, Super markets. Many of the shops had stock of the items needed for Kailash Yatra. Many of us made last minute purchases here, especially the walking sticks in Nayalam. But it was cold as usual and everybody needed heavy woolen clothing. 

One of the three buses in which we travelled

Evening prayer at Nayalam

Each room had multiple beds. There was a room with 12 beds in which we all assembled  in the evening and prayed to Lord Shiva for His darshan and successful completion of parikrama.

Trekking practice

On the rest day for acclimatization we had a trekking practice on the hillock opposite to the rest house.

Ascent 

Near the top of the hillock 

On the Top of the hillock 

It may sweat while climbing but one should not remove the sweater.  Also the head should also be covered always to protect from the biting cold. Some yatris didn't follow this and they faced problems. So wear the woolen clothing always. 

Aerial view of Nayalam town from the top

A flower on the hillock 

Descent 

A highway with sparse traffic

Rest after a strenuous trek  

Typical room with 6 bed

                                                                                                                                                         The yatra continues . . . . . . . . . 

Holy Yatra to the Abode of Lord Shiva - 6

Stay at Thathopani

Due to landslide and subsequent trekking to cross the landslide the group stayed for the night at the bordertown og Tathopani. This place is named so because of the hot water springs there and is famous for bungy jumping. Because of this unscheduled stay at Thathopani the yatra got delayed by a day .

Step Irrigation all along the way 

With great difficulty alla of us crossed the landslide and reached Barabishe and had our lunch there. Later we travelled by bus to the border town of Kodari. The scars of the massive landslide was visible throughput the journey.  We saw many damaged buildings. Bote Kosi river was flowing  with muddy water indicating that still it is raining. In between we saw a lot of waterfalls. The road was damaged and we proceeded slowly. On both sides we saw  step irrigation being carried out where ever it is possible. all the houses had stocks of maize corns.  

A  beautiful waterfall

Sherpas from this organization lead us into Tibet

Normally the tour operators from India have tie-up with some tour operator in Nepal and the members of this tour operator normally lead the yatri's into Tibet ans take care of the Food, accommodation and all the needs of the yatris. Normally they take the help of a Chinese guide also  for smooth passage int China.  The Sherpas form The Trekkers Society Pvt Ltd lead us in this yatra.

                        

 Himalayan Eco Resorts    

                                                  

 A High rise Hotel

The five floor high rise Resort was situated on the banks of the Bote Kosi River . There were regular rooms and cottages . To reach  the river  which was flowing down below there were steps .  The sound of the flowing river was a lullaby for us in the night. 

On the banks of  Bote Kosi River  

Comfortable rooms

Fully manicured grass meadows and cottages

Shri. Kumaraswamy who sang the Holy hymns with rhythm

Evening prayer in progress

We had decided that prayer meetings will be held in the morning and evening  but it started to rain when we started assembling for the prayer then all of us prayed to the Lord to stop the rain for sometime, by His grace the rain stopped for sometime and we completed the prayer after which rain started again. 

Morning Prayer

Our group 

Bote Kosi River view

Unlike Kathmandu, Thathopani was cold and was less crowded. The cold was a precursor to the days to come. We were all provided with overcoat by Sherpas and also we converted Indian currency to yuan here. 

With the Sherpas of Himalayan Trekkers Association 

Ready for crossing the border

Distribution of presents to Local children

Playful local children

After a nice unscheduled  one night stay at Thathopani we crossed into China through Friendship bridge. This time the passage was smooth. Our Chinese guide and three buses and were waiting for us. As suddenly Chinese Govt ordered that only 18 passengers are allowed in a bus we needed 3 buses otherwise we could have travelled in 2 buses. it cost each yatri an extra cost of U.S$ 300( Rs 18000).  We were provided packed lunch at Zangmu and the Chinese policemen joined us here. Then we drove  straight to Nylam. It was raining heavily. The mountains were refreshing with thick green canopy and we saw a number of waterfalls in between. Here in Nylam we were accomodated in  Nylam Tourist Inn .

The yatra continues . . . . . . . . . 

Holy Yatra to the Abode of Lord Shiva - 2

                                        KAILASH   MANASAROVAR YATRA  2014
                                           

The hotel where we were accomodated

Kalish Manasarovar yatra is a high altitude trekking expedition. In high altitudes (above 3000m)  the air pressure and oxygen level in the atmosphere  is less. Also the weather is very fickle so one has to understand that one has to be physically fit without any major ailment to complete the yatra. Also minimum of three layers of  woolen clothing with monkey caps, gloves and socks is mandatory.   Proper acclimatization  only make the yatra comfortable. It's really a test of one's endurance. 

As Kailash is situated in Tibet Autonomous Region of China, Indian nationals need Chinese visa and special in-line permit to visit Kailash.  Also the Chinese Govt. issues only group visas ( paper) and does not stamp in the passports.  So one has to travel in a group only. 

                                                      A nice painting in the Hotel

                                         ( View of Annapurna Ranges with fishtail peak)

Model of  Pasupatinath Temple at the Hotel

There are two routes available for Indian nationals the first one is sponsored by External affairs Ministry.  The yatris travel nearer to  Indo-Nepal border and enter into Tibet by crossing Lipulekh Pass. The duration is 25 days for yatra and medical examination at Delhi. As only 18 batches of 60 yatris are allowed through this route the selection is by randomized computer selection among the applicants. Normally advertisement appears in  leading Newspapaers in the month of December and one have apply before 10th March.  As one have to trek for about 200 Kms one has to be physically fit so much importance is given to medical examination. 

 Mr & Mrs Chinnapappaiah 

The author 

Janarthan couple ready to enjoy a sumptuous breakfast

The other route is through Nepal.Many private tour operators  arrange for the yatra in association with tour operators based in Nepal. The yatris travel to Kathmandu, capital of Nepal and cross into  Tibet through the friendship bridge located at Kodari and then travel by Land Cruisers or buses  up to Darchen the base camp for Kailash parikrama.  The duration of the yatra is 13 days, but the cost will be more.  The main problem is acclimatization as the yatris travel without proper rest. Many physically unfit persons travel through this route and suffer from High altitude sickness.   

Kumaswamy expert in singing 12 Thirumurai with tune 

 Dhanalakshmi - Ramesh - Anandavalli 

Many yatris may be in a dilemma as to travel by which route? On  both the routes there are advantages and disadvantages overall as on today because of shorter duration and travel  upto Darchen by bus,  the  yatra can be done as per their convenience   and less distance of trekking the Nepal route scores over Indian route. As  almost  the  full journey inside Tibet is high altitude and  from Manasarovar the travel is common to  both the  routes one have to be physically fit. 

Kathmandu Tour
 some of my fellow yatris.

Latha

Latha - Balasubramanian couple

The journey from zanghmu the border town on the Tibet side back to Zangmu is as follows Nylam,  Saga, Tangbo and Hore on the shores of Manasarovar. For proper acclimatisation teh journey is an  extended  one . The whole itinerary was as follows:

Day 1 ( 04/09/2014): Travel from Chennai to Delhi, long wait and travel to kathmandu and stay at Kathmandu.

Day 2:   Tour of Kathmandu rest day for acclimatization.

Day 3: Kathmandu to Kodari partly by bus and part by trek to cross land slide. Stay at Tathopani. Normally  the yatris cross into Tibet and travel upto Nylam and stay there because of landslide we were delayed and stayed at Tathopani, because of this the yatra was delayed  by a day. 

Day 4: Kodari to Nylam and stay at Nylam.

Day 5: Stay at Nylam for acclimatization and  trekking practice.  

 The Route map of the yatra from Kathmandu

Day 6: Naylam to Old Drongpa by bus:  In between crossed Lalung la Pass (5500 M), Brahmaputra River , Saga town and stay at Old Drongpa.

 Day 7: Old Drongpa to Manasarovar. Had the first darshan of teh Lord, had a bath in Holy Manasarovar and stayed at Chiu on the shores of Manasarovar. 

Day 8:  Performed yagna at the shores of Manasarovar and travelled to Darchen and stay at Darchen( The base camp for Kailash  Parikrama) 

Day 9:  First day of parikrama.  Trek from Yamdwar to Deraphuk had the darshan of west face and North face of the Lord and stay at Deraphuk. 

Day 10: Second day of Parikrama. had the darshan of Mother Parvati ar Dolma and Her bathing ghat Gowri Kund trekked upto Zhuthulpuk and stayed there.

Day 11: Third day of parikrama a easy day of 6 Km trek reached Darchen. Travel by bus to Old Drangpa and stay there. 

Day 12: Travel from Old Drangpa to Nylam in between enjoyed the beauty of  Shi-Sha Pangma snow covered peaks, Paiku-Tso lake. 

Day 13 (16/09/2014):  Naylam to Kodari some yatris left to Kathmandu by Helicopter and others by bus and trek and reached Kathmandu and stay there.  

Day 14: Some yatris left for their home. Most of us proceeded to Muktinath yatra from Kathmandu. 

Elangovan - Kumarasamy

- Ramakrishnan

Revathi - Kalavathi 

Chinnapappaiah couple

V. Sekar -  Shriram

 Janarthanam couple

T.Sekar -  Venkatraman

The accommodation was spacious neat and comfortable. The hotel  also served  south Indian food. The location of the Hotel nearer to Pasupathinath temple was an added advantage. many of us just walked to the temple and had the darshan of Lord Pasupatinath. 

Morning prayer at Hotel 

One of our co-yatri Shri.Kumarasawamy was expert in singing  the 12 Thirumurais (The shaiva hymns) with proper tune. So along with him the group regularly  sang the hymns in the morning and evening  and prayed to Lord Shiva and Mother Parvati for a nice darshan and a trouble free  circumambulation ( Parikrama). 

The full  group of  devotees 

                                                                                                                                                                The yatra continues . . . . . . . . .